Pumpkin soup

I always thought that the sweetness of pumpkin needs to be balanced in the spicy, acid, smoked registers. This is a fusion that pleases my taste buds.

3 lb chunks butternut squash
1/2 lb organic silken tofu
1 can (13.66oz) organic lite coconut milk
3/4 quart-1 quart organic low sodium vegetable broth
1 tablespoon coconut oil
2 cloves garlic
3 inch ginger sliced large
2+ tablespoons thai green curry paste
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon fish sauce
splash (+) of sriracha (if you like)
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

Tom Kha Gai

Ingredients

Dude! This stuff is amazing! When I run low in my freezer stash, I start to feel sad. Get the broth done and freeze. Add last moment stuff, from shrimp, cod, chicken, shiitake, soba or udon noodles, sweet peas, etc.

• 4-6 stalks fresh lemongrass (or 1-2 tubes paste)
• 4 x 1" piece ginger, grated (or 1-2 tubes paste)
• 12-14 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 2-3 x 13.5-ounce cans coconut milk
• limes: 3 zest and 2 juice
• 8-12 cloves of garlic, smashed 
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 1-2 tablespoon sugar/maple syrup
• +/- 1-2 pound shiitake for flavor
• Sriracha, smoked paprika

1. Using the back of a knife, lightly smash lemongrass; cut lemongrass into 4" pieces.
2. Dice the ginger
3. Bring lemongrass, ginger, and broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until flavors are melded
4. Mix in coconut milk, fish sauce, and sugar. Balance flavor salt/sweet/sour/hot: salt/sugar/lime juice/Sriracha
5. The broth can be cooled, divided in freezer plastic bags and frozen to use at a future time
6. When you need it thaw it!
7. Add chicken (protein) and bring to a quick boil. Do not overcook.
8. Serve with chili oil, cilantro, and lime wedges.

Ramen

Ramen Broth

5 Quarts = 10 portions

Two 3-by-6-inch pieces of konbu

6 quarts water

2 cups dried shiitake

4 pounds chicken (use drumsticks)

5 pounds of smoked neck bones (at least some should be smoked)

1 medium onion quartered

2 large carrots, peeled and chopped in large pieces

Tare

in a large pot bring water to a simmer

rinse konbu and add it to the pot

turn heat off, steep for 10 minutes then remove the konbu

add shiitakes, heat to the max get to the boiling point then low heat to simmer for 30 minutes

remove shiitakes

roast the neck bones in the oven for 1 hour at 400F  as you cook the chicken

add the chicken to the water and keep the heat for a gentle simmer

skim and discard anything rises to the surface

replenish water to keep chicken submerged

after about 1 hour the meat should pull away easily from the bones

remove the chicken

add the roasted pork bones and simmer for 6-7 hours

skim the surface, replenish water lost

add the vegetables for the last 45 minutes

remove bones and vegetables

strain through double cheesecloth once or even twice

season with tare - start with 2 tablespoons per quart and adjust to taste; needs to be fairly salty

keeps for a few days in the fridge or for a few months in the freezer

Assembling a bowl of ramen

Warm up Ramen Bowl (at least 3 cups volume)

2 cups hot Ramen Broth adjusted with Tare or mirin

5-6 ounces ramen noodles

2-3 slices pork belly

1/2 cup pork shoulder for ramen (or chicken or tofu or mix)

Two 3-by-3 inch pieces of nori

1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions

4-5 pieces bamboo shoots

1/4 cup seasonal vegetables: sweet peas, corn, kale

Some bean sprouts

1 Slow-Poached Egg

Tare

Is used in Yakitori restaurants to brush the finished grilled skewers or in Ramen shops to salt the broth.

2-3 chicken backs, chicken skin left, leg bones split as much as possible to increase surface

1.5 cup sake

1 cup mirin

1.5 cup soy sauce

Ground pepper

Oven at 450F

Spread the bones in the right container

45 minutes to 1 hour; check after 35 minutes

Goal is to avoid burning but obtain deeply browned bones

The fond - fatty liquid caramelizing on the bottom of the pan needs to be dark but not black

Deglaze the fond with a splash of sake on the stovetop under medium-high heat

Add the rest of the liquids

Bring to a boil then simmer for an hour

Strain the bones out and season the liquid with black pepper

Tomato-Basil-Tofu Soup

Cook and freeze recipe

4 small-medium onions large dice

3 cups celery stalk chopped

15-20 small garlic cloves

3-4 tablespoons mixed canola and olive oils

    Sautee them for about 10 minutes on medium fire until golden

    Mix often, wait for points of caramelization

Deglaze with the first bottle (46 oz) of tomato juice

    Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes

    Transfer to a blender and puree at high speed for several minutes

    Return to the pot

Add 1 more tomato juice bottle (46 oz)

In the Blender puree 1 tray of firm tofu (14 oz drained) and a 20 oz tomato puree with a 1 quart box of chicken broth

Add to the pot

Add 1 Pint of light or heavy cream, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon smoked salt, 2 tablespoons Sriratcha sauce, 10 dried chilies, 1-1.5 tablespoon sweet smoked paprika, 2 tablespoons honey

Keep it on high for 5-10 minutes until the huge cauldron starts to get alive

Simmer for 45-60 minutes

Take the chillies out

1-2 teaspoons cracked black pepper

As much basil, fresh, tubed or dried as you like

Fix final flavor (sweetness, spiciness, saltiness, umami); 

add lemon juice, thai fish sauce (optional)

Simmer another 10-15 minutes.

Cool to room temperature

Divide in portion size containers

Freeze

Dukkah

Wikipedia will tell you that Duqqa, or dukkah is an Egyptian condiment consisting of a mixture of nuts (hazelnut is classic), herbs and spices. It is typically used as a dip with bread or fresh vegetables for an hors d'œuvre.

We had it the first time in Boston at Oleana. It is a constant in our fridge ever since. Does not need to stay in the fridge but the flavors last longer.

I use a pound of nuts, mix of hazelnuts, sunflower seeds,  pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds. I grind them a bit to be at similar size that is still a bit chunky and toast them carefully in a clean pan. You really do not want them to get burned. If you mess up throw them away and restart. Hope will not happen to you but...

Flavoring is to taste. In the pan at low heat add:

salt (I use sriracha salt for a bit of kick)
pepper
ground coriander seeds
freshly ground fennel seeds
ground cumin
turmeric for color
bit of curry powder
sumac

Add some of each, sweat the flavor at low heat mixing slowly without leaving it unobserved for 5 minutes. Don't be shy, the spices go by the tablespoon. You may start gradually but the resulting product should be quite salty and intensely flavored. Add more of some or all to make it to your palate. Gentle toast another 5 minutes.

Let it reach room temperature and store in a glass jar in the fridge up to 2 months. The prime time is the first month.

Use as a dip with good olive oil, sprinkle on salads, sandwiches, cheese. Have half a teaspoon after a glass of wine..

Pickled shiitakes

This is one of my favorite finds from David Chang's - Momofuku.

 

 

4 cups shiitakes (I used baby bella with decent results)

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup sake

1 cup sherry / rice vinegar

Two 3 inch knobs of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced large enough

3 cloves garlic

 

 

Boil/steam the mushrooms in 2 cups water

Strain and reserve the broth

Cut the 'srooms in 1/8 inch slices and place in an adequate jar

If the broth is watery still, strain and simmer to 2 cups

Combine the mushroom broth, the sugar, soy sauce, sake, vinegar, garlic and ginger to a saucepan

Under medium heat simmer gently for 30 minutes

Discard the ginger

Pour the liquid in the jar

Ready to eat immediately, better in 24 hours

You may try a drizzle of sesame oil when you serve it

Keeps 1 month in the fridge

Pork Tenderloin "Wellington"

Ingredients:

 

1 pork tenderloin, silverskin removed

1 oz. dry apples

1 Tablespoon olive tapenade

4.5 oz prosciutto

2 Tablespoons mustard whole grain

Thyme

Salt, Pepper

 

 

 

Instructions:

 

 

Get the puff pastry out of the freezer

Set it covered with a clean  kitchen towel x 45 minutes

Set the oven for 400 F

Get the apples in the food processor and …"process"

Mix with the tapenade  (you can spice it up as you like)

Split the tenderloin in half

Flip the ends (it makes it more "even" in shape)

Set the prosciutto slices in a way they partially overlap

Sprinkle thyme (preferably fresh, dry will do)

Sprinkle with salt and pepper

Place the tenderloin on the prosciutto "blanket"

Place carefully the apples-tapenade mixture in the middle of the tenderloin

Roll the tenderloin in the prosciutto; shape the best you can

Set in the fridge

Get the pastry sheet on a surface lightly covered with flour

Roll in all directions aiming at a 12/14 inch rectangle

Use 2 Tablespoons whole grain mustard to cover an area that approximates the roll of meat

Set the meat on and roll nicely

Set on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper

Paint with beaten egg

Sprinkle with sesame seeds

Get it in the oven for 25-30 minutes to an internal temperature of 140F

Let rest at least 10 minutes before slicing with a serrated knife

Pairs well with a simple salad of your liking