Saturday, November 4, 2017

Ramen

Ramen Broth
5 Quarts = 10 portions
Two 3-by-6-inch pieces of konbu
6 quarts water
2 cups dried shiitake
4 pounds chicken (use drumsticks)
5 pounds of smoked neck bones (at least some should be smoked)
1 medium onion quartered
2 large carrots, peeled and chopped in large pieces
Tare

in a large pot bring water to a simmer
rinse konbu and add it to the pot
turn heat off, steep for 10 minutes then remove the konbu
add shiitakes, heat to the max get to the boiling point then low heat to simmer for 30 minutes
remove shiitakes
roast the neck bones in the oven for 1 hour at 400F  as you cook the chicken
add the chicken to the water and keep the heat for a gentle simmer
skim and discard anything rises to the surface
replenish water to keep chicken submerged
after about 1 hour the meat should pull away easily from the bones
remove the chicken
add the roasted pork bones and simmer for 6-7 hours
skim the surface, replenish water lost
add the vegetables for the last 45 minutes
remove bones and vegetables
strain through double cheesecloth once or even twice
season with tare - start with 2 tablespoons per quart and adjust to taste; needs to be fairly salty
keeps for a few days in the fridge or for a few months in the freezer


Assembling a bowl of ramen
Warm up Ramen Bowl (at least 3 cups volume)
2 cups hot Ramen Broth adjusted with Tare or mirin
5-6 ounces ramen noodles
2-3 slices pork belly
1/2 cup pork shoulder for ramen (or chicken or tofu or mix)
Two 3-by-3 inch pieces of nori
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions
4-5 pieces bamboo shoots
1/4 cup seasonal vegetables: sweet peas, corn, kale
Some bean sprouts
1 Slow-Poached Egg


Tare
Is used in Yakitori restaurants to brush the finished grilled skewers or in Ramen shops to salt the broth.

2-3 chicken backs, chicken skin left, leg bones split as much as possible to increase surface
1.5 cup sake
1 cup mirin
1.5 cup soy sauce
Ground pepper

Oven at 450F
Spread the bones in the right container
45 minutes to 1 hour; check after 35 minutes
Goal is to avoid burning but obtain deeply browned bones
The fond - fatty liquid caramelizing on the bottom of the pan needs to be dark but not black
Deglaze the fond with a splash of sake on the stovetop under medium-high heat
Add the rest of the liquids
Bring to a boil then simmer for an hour
Strain the bones out and season the liquid with black pepper



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