Cooking Salmon

In this post I will summarize some of the relevant facts and techniques about salmon cooking.


The temperature




The following aspects about temperature appear important. One is the final temperature, the other is the time spent there and the finally we have the speed of heating.




The dilemma is that the temperature that is guaranteed to kill anything possibly moving in your piece of fish will also kills any desire to eat it. The FDA’s guidelines recommend cooking fish to 63°C / 145°F for 15 seconds.




“Consuming any food involves some amount of risk, but purchasing your fish from a good source and handling it properly are the best ways to keep that risk low. Some fish, like tuna, farmed salmon, swordfish, and freshwater fish are generally considered safe to eat raw, or cooked to any temperature you prefer. Other fish, including wild salmon, halibut, cod, sea bass and inshore saltwater fish are not. This second group of fish is susceptible to a parasite called an anisakid nematode . The best way to kill this parasite is to freeze and hold fish, but as most home freezers aren’t up to the task, we recommend buying fish that has been commercially flash-frozen if food borne illness is a concern for you.”



This being said, either one needs to accept that there are some risks eating seafood or stop reading further.



Probably the optimal internal temperature for cooking salmon is 45-50C or 113-122F when texture and flavor are concerned. The time the fish should stay at this temperature should be about 30 minutes. Or at 132F for 4 and a half minutes, or at 140F for 45 seconds. Above 140F the fish starts getting rather dry.



Now, if you cook the fish in the oven or on the pan, as the external temperature is much higher, you cannot keep the temperature steady at that point. The fish will continue to get warmer and warmer and will end up dry.




Taking the fish out of the skillet or the oven pan when the internal temperature hits 125-130-135F and putting it on a board will lead to a final temperature a few degrees higher (carryover cooking). Having an instant thermometer is a must (or you need good instincts).




The speed with which the heat is applied is also a variable. Frying is fast and hot but the risk of drying out the fish is proportionally higher. Low and slow(er) is another way and this is not that taxing on your reflexes.




I take a 2 lb salmon fillet and keep it for 3-4 hours (fridge - or up to overnight) in 5% brine with or without herbs, spices or other aromatics. After that I rinse and tap it dry. I leave it on a cookie rack in the fridge for a few hours to dry well on the surface.




“The salt in the brine causes the muscle fibers in the fish to swell and retain more water. In salmon, for example, brining before cooking will also prevent albumin (the white stuff between muscle fibers) to leech out during cooking.”




I warm up the oven at lowest temp, 175F in my case. When reading 175F I open the oven and add the fillet but I keep the door open about 4-5 inches. This should lower the temp. If you have, place the probe of the thermometer in the thickest part of the fillet and set the alarm for 105F.Don’t go too far.




Keep the fillet until the desired temperature, holding in mind that the temp will continue to rise about 5 degrees after removing it from the oven. Serve warm or cool it fast for a few minutes in the freezer before transferring it in the fridge. This recipe offers a nice looking fillet with moist and flaky flesh.




What the previous recipe is not offering is the joy of a GBD (Golden Brown and Delicious) crispy crust. Pan-frying the individual portions of salmon require: dry surface, high temp, “thick-enough” fillet, instant thermometer, speed and removing all distractions.




You can use a bit of pan searing flower, a pinch of finely grated parmesan, bread crumbs or nothing. Just dry surface well, salt, no pepper going in the skillet that is really hot with the olive oil smoking. Aromatic herbs like fresh thyme, rosemary and garlic can be added. Things should be very fast, wait the first minute or so, look for color, turn, adjust the heat, wait, turn again, then finally repeat for last 2 sides. Take out, check temp, and if too low continue a minute or two on the sides less done or in the oven.




For thin fillets that might dry out, focus on the presentation side, get a nice color then flip and minimally cook the other side. Problem with this technique is a messy stovetop and persistent smell in the kitchen.




I found this technique offered by Mark Bittman (in no other place than New York Times) as an alternative.



“Heat your oven to the absolute maximum before beginning to cook (even 600 degrees is not too hot). Start the fish on top of the stove to heat the pan a bit, then immediately move it to the oven (if you have a baking stone, place the pan on it; if not, place the pan on any oven rack). In just a few minutes, the fish will brown beautifully on the bottom and remain moist within (as long, of course, as it isn't overcooked).”



These are basic techniques that do not require special equipment. Cooking salmon sous vide, smoking the salmon, curing and drying the salmon will do require some equipment. More about those with other occasions.